Easy DIY Industrial Curtain Rod Using PVC Pipe – Under $25

The ugly roll-down shades that once covered the windows in my master bedroom decided to just give up and fall down one day. Not having window treatments isn’t an option in my house, so I made these easy DIY industrial curtain rods using PVC pipe. They’re even featured in this article from The Spruce!

Take me to the Step-by-Step Instructions

Decision to Use PVC Pipe vs. Plumbing Pipe

My initial plan was to use plumbing pipe because, hello gorgeous industrial curtain rods! Then I saw the price to get all the supplies from my local Home Depot and thought, uh, $50-$75 for one complete rod? No, thanks.

After some research, I decided to use PVC pipe. I was concerned with how well it would hold up over time, but considering how inexpensive it is, I had to try it.

I have two windows in my master bedroom. My headboard sits in front of one. To make this window appear larger, I wanted the industrial curtain rod to be slightly wider than the headboard. It ended up being 76” long, while the other curtain was for a 36” window, and I made it 42” wide.

DIY Industrial Curtain Rod Supplies

• 2 – 10’ long, 3/4” diameter PVC pipe (I also did the window in my son’s bedroom, so I needed the second pipe)
• 4 – 90 degree PVC elbows, 3/4″ diameter
• 5 – conduit fittings, 3/4″ diameter
• 1 – tee, 3/4″ diameter (only needed one for the rod over 48″)
• 4 – floor flanges, 3/4″ diameter
• Spray paint – I used Rust-Oleum Universal All Surface Hammered Black Spray Paint and Primer in one (I love this stuff)
• Hand saw
• 1.5″ screws
• Black marker
• Tape measure

I began by using a power circular saw to cut the PVC, but the pipe kept slipping away from me and some of the pieces even broke or cracked. If I had had a clamp to hold the PVC down with, it might have worked. Regardless, I didn’t, so I broke out my handsaw. It took a little longer and required more physical exertion, but it was probably safer in the end.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1 . Measure the length of each cut you’ll make from the 10′ piece(s) of pipe and mark them with a black marker. I had wiggle room on sizing, plus I had the second pipe available, so I wasn’t overly concerned with making the measurements exact. However, you’ll also want to cut several 1″ pieces that you’ll use to connect the conduit fittings to the elbows and tee. In this case, I needed five.

2 . Before putting the pieces together, paint them. Lay out some plastic (I made mine in my garage) and place all the cut pieces, floor flanges, elbows, conduit fittings, and tees on it.

3 . Paint! Make sure you have adequate ventilation. If you’re using the same paint as I did, hold the can about 10″ from the pieces for a nice, even finish.

4. Wait about an hour, then add another coat of paint. Make sure you rotate the pieces around so you don’t have any white spots show through. Two coats should be sufficient and it’ll help hold all the finished pieces together more snugly without gluing them.

5. Once dry, I put the rods completely together, positioned them where I wanted them on the wall, lightly marked the holes with a pencil, then took them all apart. It’s easier to hang the floor flange by itself than it is to try to balance the whole curtain rod and hang it at the same time.

6. I hung the floor flanges with my Ryobi impact driver. (battery and charger found here)

7. Once the floor flanges are securely in place, screw the conduit fittings into the floor flanges. If you’re using curtain rings (like mine), put them onto the rod now, followed by the elbows, then attach the other end of the elbows to the conduit fittings.

Done!

Hang Your New Industrial Curtain Rods

Now it’s time to hang your curtains and admire your work! I didn’t sit on my bed staring at my final product for ten minutes once I was all done. Okay, I couldn’t help it – I was so excited with how they turned out. All concerns I initially had about using PVC pipe versus metal pipe went out the window (see what I did there) once they were hung. The look is just what I was after, plus they’ve held up incredibly well.

6-Months Later

Remember how worried I was that the PVC pipe wouldn’t last? Hah! I worried about nothing. These have worked great, and the pipe isn’t bowing or anything ugly like that. If you’re on the fence about PVC pipe, just do it. You won’t regret it.

Total Cost:

• 10’ long, 3/4” diameter PVC pipe – $2.44 each
• 90-degree PVC elbows, 3/4″ diameter – $0.55 each
• PVC conduit fittings, 3/4″ diameter – $0.40 each
• PVC tee, 3/4″ diameter – $0.61 each
• floor flanges, 3/4″ diameter – $1.50 each
• Spray paint – I used Rust-Oleum Universal All Surface Hammered Black Spray Paint and Primer in one – $6.76 per can (I had some leftover from another project)
• Hand saw – I already had
• 1.5″ screws – I already had
• Black marker – I already had
• Tape measure – I already had

The cost for both windows in my bedroom came out to less than $23.00 (that’s including the can of paint). Considering one store-bought industrial curtain rod is closer to $30, and the cost to make it with plumbing pipe is at least double that, I’d consider this one a win.

I can’t wait to get more up in the rest of my house!