Install Your New Custom Built Closet

You’re here because you’re ready to install your new custom-built closet system with the IKEA PAX Closet Hack Part 2.

If not, and you still need to build your closet, go see How To Build a Functional Custom Closet Based Off the IKEA Pax System.

Supplies Needed

Tools Needed

Impact driver or drill
1/4″ drill bit

Steps to Install

The first piece installed was the right side deep hanging frame.

STEP 1: Find at least one stud in the wall that will be behind the frame and measure it’s distance from the nearest corner. I’d also recommend figuring out how far apart each of your studs are for a later step.

STEP 2: Measure that same distance on the inside of the frame, minus a half inch (to account for the side of the frame). Mark the measurements on the support boards lightly with a pencil.

STEP 3: Slide the frame into the corner and screw the back of it to the stud you found using the support boards on the frame. We also screwed it to the floor. I think we only had five total screws per frame. I feel this step is very important, especially if you have children who may try to climb on the shelves.

STEP 4: This step is optional, however I would recommend it. The floors in our house are not very level, so we decided to screw the left and right frames together to help them stay flush with each other. So, push the left frame into place flush with the way and screw it to the right frame. To minimize the visibility of the screws, Taylor put them in at 45 degree angles at corner joints.

The screw went in at about a 45 degree upward angle.

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STEP 5: Remember when I told you to see how far apart your studs are? Find where the stud(s) for the left frame should be by measuring the distance from the right side frame’s stud(s) and using a pencil to mark them. Screw the frame to the wall and floor as you did with the first frame.

closet install — I was getting really excited at this point. Knowing the frames fit and were actually going to work was a huge relief!

STEP 6: I used wood filler to cover up all the screws used to install the frames (except, apparently, the one pictured above). This will give you a nice, smooth finish when painting.

STEP 7: Repeat all the steps above with the shelving frames.

STEP 8: Tape off door frames, the floor, ceiling (I didn’t – it needed painted too), baseboards (if you left them in), etc.

STEP 9: Paint! I used two coats. You can also paint your adjustable shelves at this time. I painted mine in my basement where I could spread them out on a large piece of plastic.

STEP 10: Wait for the paint to dry (I waited about two hours).

STEP 11: Drill your adjustable shelving holes. I drilled the holes 2 inches from the front and two inches from the back of the frames using the 1/4″ drill bit. Mine are three inches apart. Use a yardstick to mark off each hole with a pencil to make sure they’re straight. If any sides of your frames are visible, do not drill your holes all the way through. If you do, you’ll be spending lot more time puttying them shut and re-painting.

STEP 12: Insert the shelf pegs and adjustable shelves.

STEP 13: Put all your clothes away If you’re like me, you’ll now discover that you have so much more space, you need to go shopping to fill it up! 🙂

I know these photos look a little “messy”, but they’re real. These are all my and Taylor’s clothes and shoes, minus a load or two in the washer.